The prospect of tiling your own walls may appear to be a daunting one, but with the proper preparation and the use of the appropriate tools, it is far less difficult than you might expect. If you're a little intimidated by the prospect of wall tiling, don't be because we've put together this comprehensive guide that will teach you everything you need to know about the subject! You can use the buttons to the right to jump to the section you're interested in, or you can scroll down to read the entire thing.
Before you begin laying your floor tile, consider the following:
Prepare the surfaces you'll be working on by cleaning, drying, and making sure they're flat before you begin. To tile over wallpaper, first remove it all the way down to the plaster and fill in any holes or cracks that have appeared. Check that the new plaster is completely dry before you begin, keeping in mind that it can take up to two months for it to set properly. Prime any porous surfaces with Mapei Primer G before you begin. As with any do-it-yourself project, the most important things to consider are proper preparation and your own safety. The following is a list of the materials, protective equipment, and tiling tools you'll need to complete the job in a safe and professional manner:
Preparation of the Tiling on the Walls
How many tiles will you require?
Identifying the number of wall tiles you'll require is the first step, and in order to do so, you'll need to calculate the area of the space you'll be covering. Make a measurement of the space's height and width, and then multiply the figures. Make sure to account for the space taken up by any doors, windows, or cupboards, and subtract this amount from the overall total. It can be helpful to draw a quick sketch with all of the dimensions written down to avoid confusion when working on a project. Once you're confident in your calculations, you can go ahead and purchase your tiles. A square metre of ceramic tile is usually enough, but we recommend having around 5-10% extra just in case.
Getting Things Started
Start tiling your grid in the middle of the wall because it is easier to ensure that your pattern is symmetrical when you start in the middle of the wall. In addition, any half-tiles you may require can be placed at the end of each row and will be of the same size as the rest of the tiles. While it may be tempting to start in the corner, doing so may result in wonky rows and a sloppy finish by the time you're finished with the project.
Make a design for yourself.
As previously stated, start your vertical rows in the middle of your space and work your way out. This can be determined by simply measuring the height and width of the object and marking the center with a pencil. A gauge rod is an excellent tool for determining the size of your row and end tiles. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, though any size will suffice, with a length of approximately 1.8m, depending on the size of your wall. However, any size will suffice. Lay out a line of tiles with plenty of space between them, then align the batten edge of the last tile with the edge of the first tiles online. With a pencil, mark each tile and each gap on the rod, and then number them. It's much easier to see how many you need in each row if you do it this way.
Step 1: Position the gauge rod so that it is parallel to the center of your wall and mark the tile positions across it as follows:
Step 2 When you get to a corner, check to see if the last tile needs to be cut to make it fit properly.
If you will only need half a buy tiles, we recommend that you start from a different position because larger tiles look much better when finished:
Step 3 If you find that you need to relocate your starting point, align the rod with the original mark and make a new one halfway between two adjacent marks.
Your end tiles will be more than half a tile wide, and your center line and centre should now be aligned as follows:
Step 4 Place the gauge rod against your new mark and, using a spirit level to ensure that the line is straight, draw a line from side to side as pictured below:
Creating Horizontal Rows in a Table
Following the establishment of your vertical rows, it is time to move on to the horizontal rows. To guide you through the process, we recommend using wooden battens that have been secured to the wall. This will also help to prevent slippage while the adhesive is curing.
The first step is to align your gauge rod with the vertical line and the skirting/floor, and then make a pencil mark alongside the rod's highest tiles outdoors mark.
Continue in this manner all the way up the wall, following the vertical line, until the rod reaches the top of the ceiling. It's possible that the wall and rod lines will line up perfectly, and you won't have to cut any tiles for the top and bottom rows after all. As with the vertical rows, if you don't have enough space, simply reduce the distance between the wall and rod marks by half and make sure it's more than half a wide. If they're less than half the width of a floor tile, simply use the mark on the rod that's the next mark down:
2. Measure the distance between the two wall marks and add another halfway between them, as shown in the diagram.
Maintaining the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor, align one of its marks with the mark you just made. Step 3
Make a second mark at the same level as the foot of the rod. This will be the point at which your horizontal row will begin. Making use of a long straight edge and a spirit level, draw a line across the wall from the mark in the following directions:
Measure and nail your 50mm x 25mm batten to the wall, making sure there are no cables or pipes hidden behind the wall.
His or her top edge should be aligned with the horizontal pencil line and should be completely straight. Use another batten to create the vertical line, and so on. If you leave the nail heads on the battens sticking out a little, it will be much easier to remove them later on:
